1. The Temperature Test. Real stones are naturally cool to the touch and warm up slowly in your hand. Hold the stone to your cheek or wrist โ if it warms up almost instantly, it is likely glass, resin, or plastic. Real crystals take several seconds to reach body temperature.
2. The Weight Test. Genuine gemstones are denser than most imitations. A real amethyst bracelet will feel noticeably heavier than a glass or plastic bracelet of the same size. This is the simplest and most reliable test โ your hand knows the difference even when your eyes do not.
3. The Magnification Test. Examine the stone closely with a magnifying glass or your phone's zoom camera. Real crystals have natural inclusions, tiny fractures, color variations, and slight imperfections. Fakes look unnaturally perfect โ uniform color, no inclusions, no variation. Glass imitations may show tiny bubbles under magnification.
4. The Scratch Test (Use With Caution). Real quartz (7 on Mohs scale) will scratch glass (5.5). But be careful โ this test can damage both the stone and the glass. It is best used as a last resort on stones you are willing to risk. Never use this test on polished or finished jewelry.
5. The Price Test. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Genuine turquoise, lapis lazuli, jade, and amethyst of decent quality cost real money. A "turquoise" bracelet for $5 is almost certainly dyed howlite, magnesite, or plastic.
6. The UV Test. Some stones fluoresce under UV light โ including many natural gems. Check known fluorescence properties of your stone online. However, this test is not definitive: some genuine stones do not fluoresce, and some fakes may be made to mimic it.
7. The Water Test. Porous stones (like turquoise, lapis, and howlite) absorb water and may darken temporarily when wet. Non-porous fakes (glass, plastic, resin) will not change. Drop a tiny amount of water on an inconspicuous spot โ if it beads up and stays, the stone is likely sealed or fake.